That Way Hat's Blog

Are you trying to increase your online hat sales? If so, read on about how we worked with CrowningLori Hats of Oregon to help them sell an extra 70 hats in the thirty days of April.

CrowningLori’s main selling venue is their hat shop in Portland, Oregon where Lori Mirati maintains her hat making studio. By selling online as well they have been able to connect with more customers. Their target audience includes:

1. Kentucky Derby hat wearers
2. Red Hat Society members

Before adding online sales via That Way Hat, CrowningLori already sold on Etsy, a venue successfully used by many hat sellers. Lori reports that selling on more than one online venue has resulted in a substantial increase in the number of sales this year over last. While about 1/3 of their online sales were directly via That Way Hat, due to CrowningLori’s greater web search visibility, shoppers increasingly sought them out everywhere.

That Way Hat has found that, generally, the more hats that our member milliners list the more they sell. This past Kentucky Derby season we helped CrowningLori to list over 100 hats on That Way Hat. Here are some key points:

• One of our assistants in the Philippines took the photos provided by CrowningLori and wrote unique descriptions of each hat.
• The titles of the hats were taken from famous race horses and other horse related subjects. Each hat was individually numbered for easy retrieval from storage by CrowningLori.
• The photo images themselves were also given descriptive names.
• We added each hat to Google Shopping (at our expense) to help advertise.
• We produced a Kentucky Derby Infographic to generate interest in the Kentucky Derby section.
• We created a link from our website front page to the Kentucky Derby section.

Lori found that awareness of her hats increased substantially year over year, even in Portland, as many hat customers mentioned finding her online for the first time: a “ricochet” effect. Kevin Mirati, Lori’s husband reported:

“Thanks to the efforts of Geoffrey Mintz [founder] at That Way Hat we were able to reach a much larger audience this year than last, and a significant increase in sales has been the result. The Google Ad Words campaign that Geoffrey initiated was a big plus, enabling us to sell 150+ hats, both online and in-store, throughout the United States and locally. Approximately half of these went to the ‘Derby – our eighth year ‘there’ – with the balance going to local KD parties, the largest of which hosted over 1500 participants. Now that we are ‘on track’ with Geoffrey and That Way Hat we look forward to increasing our sales exponentially next horse racing season.”

By Anne Livingston, of Hats by Anne, Toronto

I received a sample of an abaca hatmaking fabric from That Way Hat through a millinery interest group on an online professional social network. Geoffrey of That Way Hat had asked for volunteers to test this material, possibly as a substitute for sparterie. Sparterie is, they tell me, a fantastically mouldable fabric that was made from willow and, even if you can source the modern version, it has not been produced in the manner venerated by milliners past in some time. It’s achieved near mythical status these days – call it millinery “unobtainium”. Naturally, I was one of the eager souls who jumped at the offer.

The sample arrived soon afterwards – beautiful, densely woven sinamay, slightly bleached, in a lovely, natural, wheaty colour. (Sinamay is a woven fibre, not unlike straw, made from a type of banana plant from the Philippines.) I have never had the opportunity to use such tightly woven sinamay before. I am told regular sinamay is 17 x 17 strands per inch, while this was 20 x 25.

After some musing over what to make with the sample, finally the fabric revealed to me what it wanted to become, and I got to work.

It was gorgeous stuff! I loved how dense the weave is; much better than any I’ve been able to buy before. It was easy to use and I didn’t need more than two layers for either the brim or crown, which were blocked separately. With typical sinamay I probably would have needed to use more layers, three for the brim.

I used it the same way I would have used any other sinamay. I didn’t try to cover it with fabric, the way (I believe) sparterie is used. I have never used sparterie, but I believe it has qualities substantially different from this fabric. It was often used as a “base”. This sinamay can be used free-form.

I experimented a little, by layering on a sample of art paper to a small piece of the sinamay to see if that would work, and it did. I used a bonding web to fuse the layers and it worked a treat. Maybe hat #2 will feature this treatment, but I was having a raffia moment and really wanted to use lots of natural raffia braid on hat #1, so I did.

Pragmatically, the texture of the multiple rows of raffia braids was good for hiding the hand-sewn join between brim and crown. Esthetically, I loved the natural colours and the subtle contrast between the sinamay and the raffia braids. At first glance they are quite similar, but ironing the raffia braids (which I did primarily to flatten them) deepened the colour slightly, and added sheen.

There are also gentle shifts in colour in both the sinamay and the raffia, which you probably can only see in person. I also love how the braids play up the sinamay brim’s translucence.

Because I was loving the sinamay’s natural colour, I didn’t try dyeing it. That same characteristic would also have made the results less predictable. Sinamay takes dye like a dream and I’m pretty good at it when the material is white to begin with but I’m no expert, and making allowances for the natural yellow-y tone is beyond me at this point.

So that’s my story about the creation of this cavalier-ish chapeau I’m calling “Natural Wonder”. I see it as the perfect punctuation to the ensemble of a guest – or mother-of-the-bride (or groom) – at a country wedding, or a garden party, or baptism, or strawberry social, or….

Where would you wear it?

In 2013 the Kentucky Derby starts on May 4^th, but Kentucky Oaks is the day before on May 3^rd. To help celebrate these most loved horse races, here is a fun infographic showing the races. You are welcome to repost it whenever you like. You can do it by pasting this script in your own site’s html:

<script src=”http://www.thatwayhat.com/store/infographic_embed/kentucky-derby.js” type=”text/javascript”></script>

If you are looking for some other Kentucky Derby infographics, take a look at these excellent ones:

• As you move you mouse over this one, the horse runs and you move forward with it: The Most Exciting Two Minutes in Sports.
• Press on your forward arrow button to see the horse run in this infographic: Road to the Kentucky Derby

San Diego Hat, an American firm which sells some of the nicest and most popular Chinese made hats on the US market, recently sold 90% of its business to a Chinese company, Mainland Headwear, for a reported $10 million. What does this mean for American hat makers? The Chinese have now in some sense cut out the middle man. San Diego has very wide national distribution into clothing stores and hat shops. San Diego has been marketing and in some cases designing the hats that it makes in China and sells in the US. They have a carefully curated collection.

Now Mainland hat is going to expand the selection. When they do, they will have much higher net margins, since US importers are usually at least doubling the price they pay to have hats made and shipped. San Diego, which makes its hats in China already, has been at least tripling. The manufacturer in China is also doubling when they produce. So now a hat that costs Mainland $2.50 to make (that they used to sell for $5.00) plus $1.00 to ship will be selling wholesale for $18.00 or more. Very nice! Of course they will still have to keep up the US trade shows, catalogs, sales people, and maybe – or maybe not – designers, so it is not all gravy.

While in the past it was a dream of American companies to establish their own manufacturing facilities, often overseas where it could be cheaper, now it is a dream come true for Chinese manufacturers to establish direct distribution in the US. A dream because in the very recent past – even 5 years ago – Chinese business people, including the heads of large firms, were prevented from coming to visit the US because of US visa issuance refusals. For instance I spoke to the head of an 500 person road building engineering firm in Shandong Province five years ago who said in spite of attempts by him and his staff, none could get US business or tourist visas.

What does this sale mean for the pricing structure? The price probably won’t drop. Mainland did pay a lot of money for San Diego that Mainland will need to earn back.

What does the company’s sale mean for competition? Mainland had sales of about $90 million dollars last year. So they are a mid sized company, but big for the hat industry. The cost of labor keeps going up in China and that is one reason Mainland is thinking about overseas markets (they recently acquired another manufacturer in Bangladesh).

Distribution of Chinese hats will be changing as Mainland and probably other manufacturers establish distribution in the US. Chinese Manufacturers don’t like to carry inventory, preferring to make only what they have already sold. But with distribution direct to stores, they will probably be willing to hold inventory. Therefore it will be easier for stores to buy a larger selection without needing to order a large quantity. Press claims that Mainland offers 5,000 different hat styles. They are well established: for instance, currently manufacturing most of Kangol’s hats and many of New Era’s hats. New Era has a stake in Mainland. This buyout will probably be a boon to stores and consumers, but tougher for competitors in the mass production / Chinese production markets.

When you’re at the Kentucky Derby, does anything go or should you try to look good in a fashionable way?

And if it doesn’t look fashionable, is it OK for the media to make fun of you like they do
here at the Huffinton Post? Those snide photo by photo sidebar comments are amusing but cruel. It says things like:

Continue reading →

On January 1, 2013 because there was no resolution, I started a hunger strike against government inaction on the fiscal cliff.  Since then I have come to believe Americans need radical change in the structure of our government.

Initial Motivation for the Hunger Strike: While the livelihood of Americans was being threatened, the two political parties have been more interested in political posturing than public service. I will stopped eating until the cliff was averted and urged other Americans to do the same. It was a short hunger strike as can be seen below:

Update: 1:00pm January 1st.
The Senate passed a bill, but still fasting as no agreement yet in House.

Update: 12:15 am January 2nd.
House passed a bill too; hunger strike ended as of now.

CURRENT VIEW — BIGGER CHANGES NEEDED:

Lawrence Lessig recently wrote a book (Republic, Lost) in which he points to campaign fund raising as the primary cause for the ineffectiveness (and subtle moral corruption) of the two political parties. He is pessimistic about a solution.

I propose a reversion to  a system of multiple parties. Clearly the two party system is no longer working. Two parties are not enshrined in the Constitution. Instead an array of election laws gives us two dominant parties. We should do away with every law that favors the two parties and allow open elections with as many parties as may appear.

• The format of ballots in the voting booth should be party neutral.
• Public funding should be available to parties other than Democrats and Republicans.
• Getting on listed on the ballot in each state should be easier.
• The national conventions of the top 8 parties should get equal air time.

What we need is a true shake up of the money influenced political parties we have seen lose sight of the national interest for their own.

It is not fashion’s way to take a back seat to politics. But it does always want to come along for the ride. So as we approach the end of the year and the edge of the cliff, the inevitable sartorial question is “what to wear?” The answer may depend on your political color. First, let’s clear up the date. The day we go over is January 1st, 2012. Mark your calendar and prepare your wardrobe.

Something Dramatic – You are a person who sees politics as opportunity. Today congress is screwing up; the president is an idiot, you say. You want to make it plain. Wear clothes with flare. Put a scarf around your neck or a pocket square in your jacket or shirt. Put on shoes that alert and alarm. Add hairspray to poof up your head.

Something Desperate – Things have gotten bad, really bad. The government can hardly stand without crutches. Layoffs are starting and they will avalanche. Businesses that are left will flee the country. You are out for survival. Wear your survival best. A canteen – or flask – to quench your thirst. Reversible jacket. Polar fleece long johns. Ski cap. Winter boots. Warm gloves at the ready. It is going to be a long, hard winter and you’d better at least make a good start.

Something Indecent – Money comes and money goes, but indecency stays forever. Yes, it does. OK, it is time to stick-it-to politics. Look what government is doing to personal freedom in San Francisco. People just can’t walk around outside nude any more. Let alone wear sneakers and jeans to a fancy dinner. Since indecent could mean something different every place you go, try these suggestions. A quiet day at home? Wear what the delivery man would not want to see, including: go naked if necessary. Going to a post New Years’ brunch with friends? Search your closet for something that will appall them. If they are Republicans, how about a Che Guevera cap?

Something Blase – OK, fiscal cliff, shmishcal fliff, you just don’t care. It is grid lock politics as usual and if anyone expected different, they are naïve. On top of that just about everyone knows deep down that it is all about show and drama. Really the impact is completely discounted. Even Warren Buffet, a man notoriously famous for decisive moves – NOT – said he would not sell a single share. Just dress like you normally do and even tone it down a little.

Something Moody – Why can’t they just work it out! Is that so hard? No! Today you should not match your clothes. Show your displeasure with some jarring contrasts of colors and styles. A Victorian blouse with sleek modern slacks. A conservative suit with 1970′s platform shoes.

Something Revealing – You want to use this political impasse to tell something about yourself. It could be that, Fuck It All, you have great biceps. Or perhaps you want to show that you are actually gay. While, the country is unable to function properly there is no better time to distract. Wear something that explains who your are and why you like to be that way.

Something Alluring – When people are upset, it is a great time to comfort them. And when money is about to be taxed, often rich people are upset. Put on something sexy and go where the rich commiserate on New Years’ day. Perhaps it is a high priced restaurant with a popular bar. Or check if there’s a sale on at the local Ferrari dealer or Tiffany’s. Then move in to comfort.

Something Staid – You’ve made your bundle already and tucked it away in Swiss bonds and gold bars. Sure it sucks to see taxes go up and employment go down, but you are a trooper. Stiff upper lip, you’ll waddle through. Wear something showing you are unruffled. It is a tough time indeed, but you are unflappable. Men, try a grey pin stripe suit and polished shoes or go causal with a Lacoste shirt and loafers. For women a simple, traditional black dress and Chanel bag would be perfectly adequate.

It has been three weeks since the storm of Oct 30th, 2012 yet the only post office in Greenpoint, Brooklyn has remained closed. Every other store in the area reopened quickly after super storm Sandy hit. Fortunately the area did not lose electricity, even though there was some flooding.

The post office does not seem to care about the inconvenience it causes by not making an effort to reopen. They won’t sell stamps or do any window service. They have no working machines. If you call the main post office number, they say the local post office is open as usual. But of course it is not.

The reason has something to do with the basement’s having been flooded on Oct 30th from the hurricane. Apparently they lost internet equipment, but not electricity or phones. So while they will accept prestamped packages and deliver mail, they won’t do anything else.

This post office in the past usually had long lines and variable service (depending on which clerk you got), but now they have gone to a whole new level of indifference. In a way it is shocking and is the most noticeable remaining after effect of the storm in this area.

What would I suggest? Fix the internet, how can it be so hard? Bring in automated stamp selling machines. Park a stamp selling truck outside.

For That Way Hat things are back to business as usual. We buy our postage online. All four of our warehouses had no flood damage. We are fortunate.

There are lots of great reasons to wear a hat — and unfortunately one is to protect your hair from a drop of an unknown liquid falling from the 53rd St E train Manhattan subway station staircase ceiling.

As I walked yesterday on 53rd from Fifth Ave to Madison on the way to enter the subway, I saw two men sitting on the sidewalk washing their feet. No kidding. And the water snaked down the side walk toward the curb. I was careful not to step on this thin stream of water, while at the same time wondering they were a couple of homeless guys where had bought a big bottle of water just attempting to stay clean in a city with few public sanitary facilities. I would be reminded of that trickle of water a few minutes later.

Over across Madison I took the escalator and then a staircase deep down into the subway, happy enough, but hatless. As I walked down the second flight of steps, splat a fat drop of liquid, wetted my hair. It got me right near the center. Bullseye! I took out a napkin from my pocket — I really do try to be prepared — to wipe what I hoped was fresh rain water or condensation or something not too noxious. But how could I know.

Then I realized the irony of my position. I sell hats, but was not wearing one. My hair would not be host to an known liquid if only I had been wearing one of my favorites. Truthfully it has been a while that I have been living dangerously. In Greenpoint I stroll over sidewalks that are covered with droppings from pigeons that roost in the store canopies. I try to step in the places where there is less white residue, hoping to avoid the possible pigeon action. So far I have dodged the pigeons, yet the subway still got me.

To find out what headpieces a bride should wear, we sent ace reporter Cindi Pearce to interview extraordinary milliner Ellen Christine. Here is what Cindi found out . . . .

1st Point: Big Gown / Small Headpiece
Brides sometimes forget that they are, perhaps for the first time ever, donning a formal gown, which can swallow them up if their bridal ensemble is not proportionate. Ellen explained that the headpiece “provides balance to all that skirt.” A full on gown with a little headpiece on the head doesn’t work because the bride looks bottom heavy and not balanced.

2nd Point: Change it Up
Ellen recommends that brides wear “transformers”, which means that there are several elements to the headpiece that can be removed. “Wear something during that ceremony that can be changed for the reception. The elements that are integrated into the design can come off.”

On David Tutera’s bridal show, My Fair Wedding, Ellen created a “transformer” by presenting the bride with a lace cap combined with a short veil and fascinator (a small trimmed artistic hair accessory ). Then at the reception, the bride wore only the fascinator without the lace cap and veil.

• Here’s a Tip in case it’s a Windy Day:
• Keep the headpiece in place with a looped braid passementerie sewn underneath for bobby pins to go through. A comb and a band that goes around the head would also work as a finish to keep the headpiece in place.

3rd Point: Veiling as Trim
Ellen Christine suggests wedding fascinators may have a cage veil, which is, technically speaking, French veiling. “It is veiling, not netting.” “I recommend a smidgeon of French veiling in the headpiece, even to the bride who won’t wear a veil, so that the headpiece is part of the ritual and tradition of wedding ceremonies. The veil does not have to come over the face.”

4th Point: Imagination Rules
Ellen pointed out that buying a bridal headpiece online works because, a bridal headpiece will fit everyone. Yet to make an outstanding headpiece requires imagination, creativity and an the ability to think outside the box, she explained. The hat (design) comes out of the brain. She would not produce the basic: crown/ brim /flower hat for everyone.

Presently, Ellen Christine is working on a floral bridal coronet featuring beads and petals. “We make all the flowers ourselves and get to incorporate a lot of different elements (into the design.) It looks like a floral collage.” She so much enjoys hat making that what she is working on is often her favorite at the moment. Ellen also loves working with brides. “Contrary to popular opinion, the bridezilla does not exist for me.”
Cindi notes that it is “a glorious time for hat connoisseurs to access the coveted, hand constructed designs of the ingenious and imaginative milliner Ellen Christine.“ Vanity Fair magazine just stated that the hat is the ”most coveted accessory for Fall” (p. 168, Sept 2012)

5th Point: Bridal Trends Change
The current trend in bridal headpieces is swinging back to the traditional veil after passing through the nothing-on-the-head stage, the fascinator with little flowers and feathers phase and the bird cage veil stage. As noted above, Ellen Christine suggests a transformation option: a traditional veil that can be removed after the ceremony with a French bird cage veil, which can be left on for the reception. Wearing a tiara was once very popular and some brides still opt for them.

Ellen Christine predicts beads are strong this year. She does hand-beading at her studio: “We love beading! It gives an element of distinctive couture to a headpiece. . . . We do a feather and flower combination that complements but doesn’t mimic the (bridal) bouquet. Above all you do not want matchy-match. That’s so 1963.”

6th Point: Which Comes First? The Bridal Gown or The Headpiece? Answer: The Shape of the Gown.

Ellen’s non-bridal customers generally choose their headwear first and then their outfit. However, with brides, she recommends that the woman try on various bridal gowns in different silhouettes. “When the bride has made a decision on the silhouette, although she may not have picked her dress yet, then she can concentrate on picking out a headpiece. The bride needs imagination, and to know what her face can take, know how she is going to wear her hair and what accessories she will be wearing.”
When the headpiece is chosen, Ellen said this is a special moment. “As soon as you put the veil on the bride’s head it’s THE moment because she knows she’s going to get married.” And tears are often shed.